The green, langurous Cambodian countryside from Siem Reap to Banteay Srei temple suddenly gives way to much hustle-bustle. Mr Rous, our guide from Archeological Survey of India informed us that we had reached the village Preah Dak, a gastronomic stop long made famous by num banhchok (Cambodian rice noodles) and Khmer barbeque.
There were few shacks selling palm products like sugar and juice and the air was heavy with the smell of the palm juice reducing in large vats. We made our way to the busiest stall with an all women operations. Over a bottle of sweet palm juice, we noticed steaming golden cakes in banana leaf bowls – Khmer palm cakes, NomAh Khour Tnaot.
I curiously walked into the back of the shop. Soth Thou, the owner offered to show me around. I asked if she would teach me and painstakingly explained to me the process of making the cakes, including ingredients, the fermentation and resting process of the batter.
“Banteay Srei province is where most of the country’s palm products are made”, she informed. Women extract the pulp through woven baskets. The pulp goes into the batter that is poured into small banana leaf bowl with a generous dollop of coconut custard. The cakes are then steamed in large steamers over wood fire, about 200 at a time. The hot cakes are served with shredded coconut, of which she sells between 400-800 a day.. She proudly repeated, “We only use organic palm sugar and ripe palm from Banteay Srei district.”. Each cake costs 1000 Riel or one can buy a box of nine for 10,000 Riel, packed pretty in one of Soth Thou’s woven palm leaf baskets. You can always save a 1000 Riel by opting for a thermocol box but that ain’t pretty!
During Covid – 19 tourists stopped coming to Banteay Srei. Soth Thou, a palm leaf basket weaver began selling palm cakes. The cakes became popular; now people from nearby villages, Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and other provinces come to buy her cakes. While other shops have started selling cakes, Soth Thou’s fluffy, gooey coconut custard filled NomAh Khour Tnaot is turning Preah Dak into a gastronomic destination. one cake at a time.
